KELOWNA KICKS BUTT
About Kelowna, British Columbia
KELOWNA KICKS BUTT
Kelowna, in BC’s sunny Okanagan Valley, is kicking butt these days. Despite its modest population of around 122,000, it has an abundance of golf courses, beaches, wineries and delectable eateries all within about an hour radius. I try to visit every year and so should all Canadians. Here are some of the latest and greatest in the area.
With 2,000+ hours of sunshine a year, it’s no surprise that the Valley’s fruit growing is world renown. The off-shoot is those that grow grapes can create exceptional wines. Kelowna now has over 32 wineries in and around the city and another 100 a short drive away. It boasts five official wine trails and a cool lot of new wineries.
I started my visit in West Kelowna at one of the newest called Off the Grid. Just opened in November 2015, the tasting room, built using straw bales as insulation in the walls and solar panels for heating, was still not quite finished construction. The Paynter family however, are well known locals as the five generations behind Paynter’s Fruit Market. Brothers Travis and Nigel started up the winery with just 600 cases in 2014 from their 16 and a half acres of organically certified vines.
To make it fun for visitors and themselves they have resident goats, turkeys and heritage chickens on the property. They’re building a ramp to the roof so the goats can survey all from atop the tasting room. Pouring now are a fresh, tropical unoaked chardonnay, a fruity balanced pinot gris, a rosewater tasting gewürztraminer and Unplugged Red made from a blend of bought local grapes.
Nearby is Volcanic Hills which takes its name from the 60 million year old dormant volcano that is home to many of the vineyards in the area. Proprietor Bobby Gidda told me that his family has been growing here for forty years. They plant seven varietals on their 65 acres and have one of the biggest wine shops in BC, at 4,000 square feet. Their gamay noir wines made into a rosé and a red wine are great sipping.
They lease out their restaurant, Blu Saffron Bistro to British born chef Colin Rayner who worked in restaurants in Britain and Bermuda before called Kelowna home. The Bistro which has stunning views of the lake and vines from its large patio serves up winning dishes such as tandoori spiced wild salmon and prime rib burgers.
Almost next door is The Hatch, which just celebrated its first year anniversary in May of this year. The tasting room is rustic, unconventional and inviting like a cool oversized shack with a stamped tin ceiling. Winemaker Jason Parkes makes a variety of wines under crazy names. Their entry level line is called Talking Stories, Screaming Frenzy is for premium wines, the Hobo series for lesser known premium grape varieties, Gobsmacked (Jason’s personal line) includes rarities such as grüner veltliner and top of the line is Dynasty and Black Swift Vineyards. This is a place which retains a sense of humour while making fabulous wines.
Their next door neighbour is one of the grand dads of Okanagan wineries, the fabled Quail’s Gate. The Stewart family began farming in the Okanagan Valley in 1908, and helped the valley transition from growing tree fruits to grapes and wine. In 1989, Ben and Ruth Stewart founded Quails’ Gate Winery and began the family’s transition into the winery business. Over the next two decades the entire family joined together to make Quails’ Gate one of Canada’s foremost producers of premium BC VQA wines. I love their pinot noir wines and think their chenin blanc is very special.
Also special is their Old Vines Restaurant which has a beautiful view and BC sourced dishes such as seared elk carpaccio, Thiessen Farm quail and Yarrow Meadows roasted duck.
On the Lakeshore side of Kelowna I visited another of the pioneering wineries – CedarCreek Estate, now owned by Mission Hill. CedarCreek released its first wines in 1987 and has been making wonderful pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris for over two decades. Their Vineyard Terrace restaurant is yet another spot for great views and food.
The newest of all wineries I visited was Kitsch Wines which just opened on April 30th. The Kitsch family’s Okanagan roots stretch back to 1910. Four generations later Ria and Trent Kitsch founded the winery and hired Vancouver Island born Grant Biggs as winemaker. If the just released chardonnay and riesling from their estate vineyards are anything to judge by, the future looks bright indeed.
Kelowna isn’t just about wines – there are 19 nearby golf courses of which a good number match excellent golf with good dining. Two Eagles is a Les Furber mid-length par 65 golf course with views of Okanagan Lake and top notch playing conditions. Their 19 Okanagan Grill + Bar has a menu inspired by local and farm fresh accented with exotic touches. Ssämjang Lettuce Wraps, The Pad Thai, Butter Chicken Bowl and Magical Mushroom Burger are not what you get at your average golf club. Delicious to boot.
The Harvest Golf Club, designed by Graham Cooke is renowned for its high calibre dining and over the top service. The course fairways lined by orchard trees (go ahead pick the apples) really speak to its location within Kelowna.
Not to be outdone the restaurants within the hotels and the stand alones in town also have awesome kitchens. Smack DAB at the Manteo Waterfront Resort has a patio right on the shores of Okanagan Lake, 12 craft beers on tap from the Pacific Northwest and tasty Asian influenced dishes such as Korean chicken wings, Thai spiced chicken and teriyaki ribs.
I’d be a regular at The Table and Cod Fathers Market if I lived in Kelowna. They sell fresh seafood in their shop and serve it up in their restaurant. Chef Ross Derrick is brilliant with his handling of fish and his lunch place with soon offer family style dinners Thursday to Saturday.
Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar has an excellent list of Okanagan wines by the glass and bottle as well as the best local cocktail ever “The Okanagan 75” made using Okanagan Spirits Gin, chock cherry syrup, Tantalus Blanc de Noir and fresh lemon juice. Food is good local, seasonal comfort fare such as Wild Moon organic pork loin.
Who else deserves a mention? Giobean Espresso for the best espresso (I liked it Cuban style) and cappuccino. Tree Beer not only for their 15 or so styles of well-made suds which they have been brewing in town for 20 years but for the to-die-for pizzas using the spent grains in the pizza dough. Okanagan Spirits for their 25 different liqueurs and spirits all made from 100 percent BC produce: Poire William, Framboise and Choke Cherry eau-de-vie; Haskap, Sea Buckthorn and Blackcurrant liqueur; and even an aquavit. Broken Ladder craft cider all expertly made from BC fruit. Salted Brick for their house cured charcuterie and local cheeses.
There is Micro Bar + Bites, a new fun tapas style eatery and bar co-owned by Rod Butters. Who knew turkey wings could be so tasty. And finally RauDZ Regional Table, owned by the award winning team of Chef Butters and his wife Audrey Surrao. Their new executive chef Brock Bowes is rocking this cozy spot with the likes of Crab Cappuccino, Ling Cod & Pacific Octopus and Crispy Shredded Pork Hock Sandwich.
See why I said all Canadians should visit here.